On my recent trip to New Orleans, I had a two objectives. One was to have a good time with friends at a great show. The other was more of a personal mission. I wanted to settle the muffuletta debate once and for all: who had the best? Traditionally, in every mention of a muffuletta, Central Grocery is in the next breath. I’ve had my share of their sandwiches, and they were good, but they weren’t my favorite. Recently there has been a resurgence of people telling me that Central Grocery is the place to get a great Italian sandwhich, so I thought I’d take this opportunity to compare my favorite with theirs.
Napoleon House has been in New Orleans for 200 years. It’s one of my favorite places to take a break from the outside world. It looks 200 years old, they always play classical music, and they know how to make a drink and great food. I think they also make the best muffuletta I’ve ever tried. They serve it warm so that the cheese is barely melted and the beautiful deli meats are giving off oils and flavor that would be muted if served cold. The bread is always perfectly chewy but the crust is crispy. The star of the show, though, is the olive salad. Why is it better? I don’t have one answer, I think it’s a combination of things. Good quality olive oil is the start, along with the normal components of chopped green and calamata olives, cauliflower, celery, carrots, and pepperocinis. They also include things I don’t see in the grocery store version, like lima beans. They make a surprisingly great accompaniment to the savory and acidic mix of oil and vinegar and vegetable medley. When you lift the bread For my money, there isn’t a better muffuletta anywhere. And by the way, this place is very affordable.
On Friday night, we arrived at Napoleon House after walking through the streets in a torrential downpour. It was cozy and warm from the gas heaters. The lighting was dim and the music was soft. It was a perfect night. I ordered a half muff, an Abita beer, and a pimms cup. The pimms cup is a refreshing drink of pimm’s gin and a lemonade-like mix garnished with a cucumber slice. The muffuletta was perfect as always. I was very happy.
My plan was to go to the grocery the next day to get their muff to compare. I forgot they’re closed on Sunday. So I went to Napoleon House to get another one. I forgot they are closed on Sunday, too. So I went to Johnny’s poboys. They have a muff, also. You can get theirs warm or cold, I guess that’s one bonus. I took it warm and to go, and ate it at home. I have to say, Johnny makes a pretty good sandwhich. I’ve had his poboys, and they were good, but I’d never had the muff. It didn’t beat my favorite, but it was very worthy and I’d eat it again any Sunday.
So, for now I guess I haven’t solved anything. I didn’t get to contrast the two big boys of the muffuletta world, but I added a new player to the game. At least I know where to go on Sunday in the quarter when I crave one thing and one thing only, the muffuletta.








